Sunday, May 31, 2009

If I had a Boat

...I´d go out on Lake Titicaca...and we did!

After watching the sunrise over the lake during breakfast, we boarded a boat with 15 other eager tourists and set out for our day on the world´s highest commercially navigatable lake. Our first stop was the floating island of Uros. This was one of the most unique things I have ever seen. The Aymara people construct these islands out of reeds that grow abundantly in the lake. There are about 35 islands, but this number varies. Stepping onto the floating island felt like stepping onto a water bed of hay. After a brief educational lecture from our guide (most of which I understood in Spanish, but was happy he repeated himself in English), we walked around the island which was about three times the size of my apartment. All the people were dressed traditionally and there was a little girl who was about 2 who kept us entertainted. After a ride in a traditional reed boat paddled quietly by one of the men we arrived at a more ¨commercial¨ island that was complete with a small store and restaurant. We then boarded our boat and headed off to a natural island of Taquile. The trip accross Puno Bay took us about 2 hours and it made me realize just how enormous this lake is.

Once we arrived to Taquile, we hiked up to the top of the island and learned about the traditional weaving and dances of these people. The high altitude made us feel like we were really out of shape. At a local community house, we enjoyed the most scenic lunch ever (including some more delicious quinua soup)! We were over looking the lake with the beautiful blue water with well as snow-capped mountains in the distance in Bolivia.

After lunch we hiked back down the other side of the island to meet back up with our boat. As we walked carefully down the 500 vertical steps, I thought to myself how happy I was to be going down these and not up. There were so many picture perfect moments and I just could not capture them all..nor do the pictures do any real justice to the majestic views.

Once our boat arrived, our guide was nowhere to be found. Luckily, the captain of the boat was there, but after a considerable amount of time waiting the captain informed us that we had to leave. Our guide would be left on the island for the night! (what?!, I mean what if that had been us..would they have just left us??...oh, so glad it was us!)

Well, poor Herman was left while we cruised the 3 hours back to Puno. It was unbelievable watching the sunset over Lake Titicaca. As I sat on the top of the boat with the cool wind blowing in my hair, I thought to myself, ¨this is the stuff adventures are made of!¨

If I had a Boat, Lyle Lovett

Saturday, May 30, 2009

She Finally Spoke Spanish

Day 2 began with an adventure. It was off to Puno today, so we had to go to the Lima airport to fly to Juliaca. Our driver picked us up 2 hours before our flight (we are thinking that is plenty of time) and it took over an hour to navigate through the traffic filled streets of Lima. Along the way, we practiced our Spanish with the driver and were able to find out some interesting things. He informed us that he was looking for an American girl to marry and that his favorite book is The Secret. That is just a two of the many fun tidbits we talked about. During our drive I also noticed that the Chili´s we passed looks exactly like the ones in the U.S. and that I haven´t seen the sun since we arrived in Lima. The clouds and smog are too busy getting in the way.

When we finally arrived at the airport (oh, forgot to tell you that we have no proof of tickets, no reservation number for our flight...nothing), our guide from the travel agency kept asking me for the flight information and I kept telling us we did not have anything because he had not given us anything. Luckily, when he hurried us to the LAN Peru check in desk and we showed them our passports it turns out that we do have reservations after all...phew!

After checking that our reservation for the flight for the end of the trip was in fact secured as well, we headed upstairs to the departure lounge. While it was now about 10 minutes until our flight was supposed to leave, the travel agency representative didn´t seem worried at all. He told us to get some mate de coca at Dunkin Donuts (yes, they sell coca tea at Dunkin Donuts in Peru) because it is supposed to help with altitude sickness. Then, we said our goodbyes, payed the domestic flight departure tax, went through security and headed to our gate.

Our flight departed late and we had a stop over in Cusco, but we finally made it to the Juliaca airport. On the flight I sat by a really nice Peruvian mountain guide who was super excited to return home for his birthday celebration and his mother had made is favorite meal--cuy (yes folks, that means guinea pig). Before leaving he gave me a little lucky bean that they have here in Peru. It is a little red and black bean and I put it in my pocket for safe keeping.

The airport in Juliaca was much more like the Peru I was picturing--one runway and a "baggage claim" that was one belt where you could see they guy outside putting your bags on the belt. We enjoyed some traditional Andean music from a band while we waited. We still were not enirely sure if our "tour" had been booked (the company we used never really sent us full comfirmation), so we were hoping someone was there to meet us. And there was! Again, holding a sign with my name on it. Our driver drove us through Juliaca and over to Puno about a 45 minute ride. On the way we finally saw more of what I was expecting to see in Peru--traditionally dressed women, mototaxis, dirt roads, delapitated building--and it was exciting!

We again practiced our Spanish with the driver on the way to the hotel and I felt much more capable than the day before. I started to feel like I might actually be able to communicate. We stopped for a picture overlooking Lake Titicaca..can´t believe I am actually here!

After quickly dropping our bags at the hotel we set out to look around Puno. We walk to the main plaza and stopped in the Cathedral. Turns out there was going to be a wedding there later tonight, so we ended up going.

We eat dinner at La Cosona and we try some of our first authentic Peruvian meals. I eat quinua soup with vegetables. Quinua is a grain that reminds me of cous-cous and they put it in soups, eat it as a side or as cereal. It is my new favorite soup! I also gave up my (mostly) vegetarian ways and tried an alpaca steak. It was a little gamey at first, but I ended up liking it with my side of quinua. The alpaca sort of reminded me of a mix between dark meat chicken and pork.

Well, another great day and we went to bed looking forward to our day on Lake Titicaca.

She Finally Spoke Spanish (to me), Joe Ely

Friday, May 29, 2009

Learning to Fly

Kiley and I woke up this morning to a phone call that was not our wake up call as expected but to some local Lima residents on the line. It was Kiley´s dad´s coworker´s sister (did you follow that..) who lives in Lima! Not only does she offer to show us around Lima, but she also offers to pick us up in her own car. Oh my goodness, what could be better on our first day in South America! We head downstairs to explore what breakfast consists of and are pleasantly surprised by the spread of eggs, bread, fruit, yogurt and a few other things. We sat down to enjoy our breakfast and to try some mate de coca (coca leaf tea) of which we have been hearing so much about.

After a great first morning breakfast, we send some emails back home so our parents know we are alive and finish just in time to meet Inez and Rosario. These friendly sisters show us to their car and we head out down the highway. We didn´t get too far before we were in bumper to bumper traffic. While sitting there, we saw men walking down the lanes of traffic selling candy or newspapers. It was just the first of many things that we don´t see back home. As we drove, Kiley and I summoned up our best Spanish skills that have become a little (or rather a lot) rusty and enjoyed speaking with Inez and Rosario.

Just as I began feeling really overwhelmed with the traffic, people, smog/fog, dirt and the though of ``Oh my goodness, what have I gotten myself into,´´ we entered Central Lima and saw many of the old buildings I was expecting to see. I felt more at ease once we parked the car and began to walk around.

We ventured into the San Fransisco monastery and walked through the creepy catacombs. We are talking lots of human bones including femurs and skulls in a dark cavern...some were even arranged artistically. We even saw the library there and it was like a set out of Harry Potter complete with dusty old books and two spiral staircases. Next, we walked over to the Peruvian White House (actually called the Palacio del Gobierno). On the way we saw a bus full of men in band uniforms running out of it as if they were late. We continued on our way and stopped only to take a picture with a guard holding a huge machine gun. We arrived just in time to see the changing of the guard (enter men in band uniforms that we had just seen). We also saw one of the first of many random dogs walking around the streets.

Before lunch we stopped to look around the Cathedral and Inez informed us that not only is she a long time Lima resident, but she used to be a tour guide. What luck! We headed to a restaurant by the sea called La Rosa Nautica and enjoyed some ceviche.

After lunch Inez helped us call a Peruvian airline called LAN to secure a flight from Cusco to Lima at the end of our flight. Next, we went to a really nice mall called LarcoMar to walk around and look at the views of the ocean. I was surprised by how nice the mall was and felt like I could be walking around a mall in Dallas (minus the ocean view of course). Last, we went to a country club type place where Inez and Rosario are members. It was a huge complex where you could play every sport you could imagine, sit by the beach, get your hair done, work out and have dinner. I could tell Lima´s elite probably spend a lot of time here.

Finally, Inez and Rosario dropped us back off at the hotel and we did not have the Spanish words to express our gratitude to them. We just kept saying gracias over and over again. Day 1 of South American Adventure--success!

Learning to Fly, Tom Petty

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Changes in Latitudes

Today, the adventures in South America begin! We flew from DFW to Miami and then flew from there to Lima,Peru. I do not know how it happened (well, the nice guy at the DFW American Airlines check-in might have had something to do with it) but Kiley and I lucked into the best seats ever for the 5 hour flight. We had the two seats normally reserved for the crew to rest on long flights, all by themselves that completely reclined all to ourselves. What a great way start to the trip! We also watched a beautiful bright white lightening storm bounce among the dark clouds.

After several hours of reading, practicing Spanish, and sleeping, the flight landed in Lima. We had to wait several minutes as the Haz Mat team checked our plane for signs of swine flu. OK not the Haz Mat team, but there were seriously at least 3 people dressed in full scrubs and masks and about 15 more with masks on as we walked off the plane. Then, every flight attendant and airport worker we saw after had on masks...crazy.

Once Kiley and I made it past the swine flu gauntlet, immigration, and got our bags, we were greeted at the airport by thousands of fans. Not really-obviously the thousands of people at the arrival gate had no idea who we were-but as we stepped out of baggage claim I felt like I was playing for the Mavericks and running out to a full American Airlines center. There were so many people waiting for arriving passengers that I felt a little like a deer in the headlights as I tried to get my whits about me. Shortly thereafter when I finally snapped out of it, Kiley and I saw our driver who was holding a sign with my name on it (lifelong dream 147 fulfilled). He rescued us from the sea of people and we were off to our hotel in an area of Lima called Miraflores. Once we checked in, we each eagerly showered and fell fast asleep looking forward to the adventures ahead.

PS- This is my first blog ever. I have decided to title each post with a song from my iPod. At the bottom of each post you will see the song and artist.

Changes in Latitude, Jimmy Buffet