Heavenly Day

Today was one of my favorite of my whole life. I got to watch the sunrise over Machu Picchu! I got to watch the sunrise over Machu Picchu. It was beautiful, awe-inspiring, amazing, unbelievable....

We woke up at 5:00 am and met our guide Willington (He was named after a famous soccer player. We had to ask because it didn´t sound so Peruvian to us either.) With my fleece, gloves and green chullo (Peruvian hat with the funny ear flaps) on, we walked a few minutes in the early morning light to the bus station. On the bus ride up the mountain, I thought I was going to die before ever seeing Machu Picchu. We were on the edge of a steep mountain and I could see no road to spare as I looked down the side of the bus...not to metion the other huge busses coming at us head on. We definitely did have to wait a few times when an oncoming bus had to back up until we could get by. Yikes! Although, despite all of this, I was still in awe of the gorgeous scenery.

On wobbly knees, I stepped out of the bus to see the big sign over the gate to the ruins. Oh my goodness, we were actually here! Willington told us to visit the banos before we entered the park because there wasn´t one inside. We paid our one sol (equivalent of about 30 cents) and got our toilet paper front the desk out front.

Now ready to go, we got our passports stamped with a Machu Picchu stamp and headed into the site. We caught a little glimpse, but quickly headed up a walkway to the left. When the walkway opened up to see the postcard view of Machu Picchu, I smiled and nearly lost my breath (and not from the many steps we just climed). It looks just like the postcards, but so much more amazing. I could not believe the expanse of buildings on the top of this beautiful mountain. We definitely set a record for pictures taken in one spot for the trip--the site by itself, Kiley and me, me, Kiley, a video, me and Kiley again, some more with just the sight, another video--this was a moment of a lifetime.

We could see the sun hiding behind the huge mountains to our right, eager to come up. First, just a little sunlight touched the top of the site, then a little more, and then we could see the sun moving across the whole site. I could not believe I was standing there watching the sunrise over Machu Picchu.

Some more pictures--with sunglasses on, with them off, us together, a video, me by myself, me and Kiley again, sitting, standing.

The whole time Willington patiently waiting for us (as well as taking pictures for us). He had been to this site countless times and would come countless more, but still just as nice and patient as he could be.

Finally, we were ready to walk around the site--wait, a few more pictures, ok now ready. Willington told us we were actually looking at Waynu Picchu (young mountain) and Machu Picchu (old mountain) was actually behind us. So the one in all of the postcards is actually Waynu Picchu, while the picture was taken when standing on Machu Picchu. Picture. He also told us about how Hiram Bingham, a Yale professor, discovered Machu Picchu in 1911. Picture. Apparently, there were two families living in two of the buildings when Bingham showed up. He paid the son of one of the families one sol (now, remember bano entrance fee, the equivalent of 30 cents) to show him around the over-grown ruins.

Next, Willington showed us the Hut of the Caretaker, the main gate to the city, the quarry, the Temple of the Three Windows, and the Hitching Post to the Sun (a huge rock carved at a 13 degree angle which creates no shadow on the summer and winter solstice). Every few steps I had to take another picture. There were just too many to be had. When we got to the Hitching Post to the Sun, he told us that it was an energy rock with regenerative powers. I put my hands up to it and tried to soak in the energy. We continued around to see terraces off of the backside of the site where there was a straight drop below (wouldn´t have wanted to be someone who had to work on those). We continued down to the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Condor. I pictured people living, working, and worshipping all over this place. We looked around some houses and we climbed into a small cave where llamas and guinea pigs were sacrificed. And after at fascinating two hour tour, Willington had to leave us....and it was only 9:30 am. We had done all of this and it was only 9:30 am.

The whole time we were walking around we could hear cheering from people who were finishing the Inca Trail. What a great feeling that must be! We could even hear one group signing Happy Birthday to one their members.

We decided to take a "lunch" break. It felt weird, but we were starving and we had eaten breakfast just after 5 am. We exited the site (you could come in and go out as much as you wanted) and bought some over-priced (as you would expect) paninis. We got a great umbrella-covered picnic table with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. As we enjoyed our lunch, we over heard some guys behind us talking about how they just finished the Inca Trail.

Back into the site, and around to explore the Inca Bridge. We took a 30 minute hike around the mountain and tried not to look down because we were on a small trail with a ticket straight to the underworld if we had one wrong step. It was gorgeous though. We came to the end of the trail to see a big wooden bridge on the flat rock face of the mountain. I could picture Inca people escaping from the Spanish across the bridge and then pulling up the wood so no one else could get by.

It was still before noon when we made it back to the main part of the site, so we decided just to lay down and soak in the sun. We found a grassy terrace all to ourselves, took off our shoes, and laid down. With the warm sun shining on us and the cool breeze that comes from being up so high, it was a great place for a nap!

Before we left the site I walked around one last time to soak everything in. I even ran into the some free workers at the site--the llamas that "mow" the grass.

I met back up with Kiley and we headed into the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge (http://machupicchu.orient-express.com/web/omac/omac_a2a_home.jsp). We walked in like we knew what we were doing and decided this was the perfect place for a celebratory drink. Pisco Sour it is--what better place!

We did have until 5 pm (when our train was leaving for Cuzco) and since neither of us wanted to spend any more time than necessary in Aguas Calientes, we decided this would be a great place for some food too. Kiley and I sat and relished our day until it was finally time to go (but not before a quick look around the hotel to see what we were missing in this nearly $900 per night sanctuary).

Survived the bus ride back down the mountain and looked around the touristy market before boarding the train. I, of course, did have to buy one tacky Machu Picchu t-shirt (I didn´t want to settle for any old tacky shirt. I had to find the most tacky one.)

On board the train was a group who had finished the Inca Trail celebrating with some beers and it was fun to watch their excitement. Kiley feel asleep after our full day, but I did not want to close my eyes because I didn´t want this day to end.

Eventually, it had to though. We arrived back in Cuzco and were met by our favorite driver, Christian. We enjoyed speaking our broken Spanish with him as we rode. In this moment, I finally realized I had become comfortable here in Peru. Coming back to Cuzco felt familiar and I felt fully satisfied with my life. It was a heavenly day.

Heavenly Day, Patty Griffin